I came to southern Utah for first time in the late 80’s, a few years after I met Bill. He’d been here before and wanted to share it with me. That trip was in May. I remember calling Mom from a pay phone and wishing her a happy Mothers’ Day and to tell her about what I was seeing. It was hot. When we were in Zion National Park, the temps reached 114 degrees. We stayed cool by hiking the Narrows on the Virgin River. It was a delicious and challenging hike: four miles in, four back, in the water, the canyon walls rising on either side of us. On that trip, we went to Zion, Bryce, Arches, and Monument Valley. I fell in love with the desert southwest. I fell more deeply in love with Bill. We traveled well together. He did silly things on hikes that made me laugh so hard I couldn’t walk. We had a great fight in a wild rainstorm in Monument Valley. We made up in a desolate campground. I made campfire burritos and he thought I was pretty wonderful.
We’ve been back to this part of the country eight times since. In the rain and snow and wind and sun. We’ve come alone and we’ve come with friends. There are six National Parks within a small distance, straddling southern Utah and northern Arizona, plus Monument Valley and Lake Powell and places that haven’t made it to being a park or monument because there is just so much that is magical here. My steady love for this place has marched alongside my steady love for Bill.
Some people ask why we keep coming down here and, on this trip, I figured out why. It’s the same reason our relationship keeps on going. It’s the combination of the familiar and the new. It’s the willingness to keep coming here because we know we’ll have a new experience each time. If we’re willing to look, to try, to take a new road, even one that isn’t well marked and we don’t know where it leads. On this trip, after almost 24 years, we knew the familiar places. So we’ve taken back roads and discovered things we never knew were here.
One afternoon near Boulder, we saw a small sign, one that didn’t promise anything more than that we’d arrive at Hell’s Backbone in 13 miles. We turned left, we followed a gravel road. Sunshine turned to clouds, then to a downpour. We followed the road. We kept going up and up and up; the clouds were low around us, water pooled on the road and we made a careful passing. We reached the top. The rain was still coming hard so we waited in the car and watched the clouds move, rain streaked the windows and we listened to it muddle the roof. We thought about turning around and going back. But we agreed. We would wait. We had time.
The storm passed.
When things cleared, we got out and walked a ways up to the narrowest of bridges. We saw this hidden place: it’s deep terrain of color, sharp outcroppings and slick stone. Harsh and devastatingly beautiful. This picture doesn’t begin to tell the power of this place, doesn’t do it a bit of justice. You have to come here to know it. But I’m putting the picture up anyway. You may have been here, or you can imagine. We stood side-by-side as the fog cleared and more and more of the canyon opened. We listened to the water pour from a fall that only comes when it rains.
P.S. There’s a resaurant called Hell’s Backbone Grill. It’s in the town of Boulder and the food there will blow your mind!







This guy greeted me this morning halfway up the block from our house. We’ve heard him calling every morning, all spring and into the summer. Fifteen years ago, when we first moved to here, a party of four peafowl roamed the neigh-borhood (I say “party” because that’s what a group of male and female “peafowl” are. I say “peafowl, ’cause that includes the “hens” and “cocks,” I say “c…” oh nevermind).
We hear him often, we see him occasionally. This summer, we’ve seen him most days, hanging out on one or another driveway. This morning, right when I came along, he opened his feathers. I had my camera, just hoping I’d run into him. It was like he knew. He did a few slow turns: front, side, back. This is the back view.
When I squatted down he came toward me, sideways in these tiny little steps. I don’t know if he was falling for the tinkly sounds my camera makes or if he was trying to scare me. If he was trying to scare me, well I’ve gotta say, “Mr. Peacock, my fine feathered friend (it is the perfect moment to use that phrase, isn’t it?), I’m not scared but I might be in love.”
Up in the mountains, 20 miles west of Ashland, six writers came and went over the course of the week. Laura Stanfill and I stayed there the whole time. It was my second visit to Lincoln. The first time was magical. That time last summer, from the moment I stepped foot in my little apartment named Dmitri (one of five apartments that make up the Bunkhouse), I sunk right into my novel. I dropped deeply in love with pure uninterrupted time to write.
The first few days at Lincoln, the battle continued. There were times I felt I might not keep breathing for the pressure of it. I kept trying to find my place in the novel: what it was really about, why did I want to write it, what story did I want it to tell? There were moments when I thought I found it and then I lost it again. Fine threads of answers appeared and slipped away and appeared again in a different color.
Each of us, we writers at Lincoln, spent the days alone: writing, walking, reading, sometimes napping, preparing our own meals and sitting alone to eat them. Full days of not talking to a soul, except the people in our stories. We met at seven each evening in my apartment, Alyosha, and shared treats and drink and words and writing. On the second night, I told them of my struggle. I cried. They listened. And on their way out that night, each of them gave me a gift. A book, a hug, an offer to read my work.
I took a long walk every day, the same walk, so I wouldn’t have to think about where I was going, so the arc of my novel could hover around me, so I could talk it through, out loud. I walked further each time, made it to the creek, the quarry, and further on.
They mill their own wood at Lincoln, making use of the original intent of this place. With some of that wood they are building a chapel in a small and beautiful glade. The bottom floor is framed in. I walked out onto it when I first got here and saw the view they’d have from the chapel windows. The sweet smell of sawdust and the high pitch of a saw reminded me of my childhood, when the new barn was built on our farm and men worked together in an easy way and the women brought food and the kids practiced hammering nails into leftover boards.
I came back to my cabin and didn’t stop for water or food or to take my coat off. I took up my words, each one whispered to the page, whispered out loud in my room, each one settled into its place in my story.