Archive for the ‘Life!’ Category

Hell’s Backbone

Thursday, October 7th, 2010

I came to southern Utah for first time in the late 80’s, a few years after I met Bill. He’d been here before and wanted to share it with me. That trip was in May. I remember calling Mom from a pay phone and wishing her a happy Mothers’ Day and to tell her about what I was seeing. It was hot. When we were in Zion National Park, the temps reached 114 degrees. We stayed cool by hiking the Narrows on the Virgin River. It was a delicious and challenging hike:  four miles in, four back, in the water, the canyon walls rising on either side of us. On that trip, we went to Zion, Bryce, Arches, and Monument Valley. I fell in love with the desert southwest. I fell more deeply in love with Bill. We traveled well together. He did silly things on hikes that made me laugh so hard I couldn’t walk. We had a great fight in a wild rainstorm in Monument Valley. We made up in a desolate campground. I made campfire burritos and he thought I was pretty wonderful.

We’ve been back to this part of the country eight times since. In the rain and snow and wind and sun. We’ve come alone and we’ve come with friends. There are six National Parks within a small distance, straddling southern Utah and northern Arizona, plus Monument Valley and Lake Powell and places that haven’t made it to being a park or monument because there is just so much that is magical here. My steady love for this place has marched alongside my steady love for Bill.

Some people ask why we keep coming down here and, on this trip, I figured out why. It’s the same reason our relationship keeps on going. It’s the combination of the familiar and the new. It’s the willingness to keep coming here because we know we’ll have a new experience each time. If we’re willing to look, to try, to take a new road, even one that isn’t well marked and we don’t know where it leads. On this trip, after almost 24 years, we knew the familiar places. So we’ve taken back roads and discovered things we never knew were here.

One afternoon near Boulder, we saw a small sign, one that didn’t promise anything more than that we’d arrive at Hell’s Backbone in 13 miles. We turned left, we followed a gravel road. Sunshine turned to clouds, then to a downpour. We followed the road. We kept going up and up and up; the clouds were low around us, water pooled on the road and we made a careful passing. We reached the top. The rain was still coming hard so we waited in the car and watched the clouds move, rain streaked the windows and we listened to it muddle the roof.  We thought about turning around and going back. But we agreed. We would wait. We had time.

The storm passed.

When things cleared, we got out and walked a ways up to the narrowest of bridges. We saw this hidden place: it’s deep terrain of color, sharp outcroppings and slick stone. Harsh and devastatingly beautiful. This picture doesn’t begin to tell the power of this place, doesn’t do it a bit of justice. You have to come here to know it. But I’m putting the picture up anyway. You may have been here, or you can imagine. We stood side-by-side as the fog cleared and more and more of the canyon opened. We listened to the water pour from a fall that only comes when it rains.

P.S. There’s a resaurant called Hell’s Backbone Grill. It’s in the town of Boulder and the food there will blow your mind!

Capitol Reef – One of My Favorite Places

Sunday, October 3rd, 2010

After a summer of neglecting my Musings and News, I’m back. Writing from Capitol Reef in Southern Utah seems like a fine place to start. It is just so DANG beautiful here. The skies, the colors of the rocks and dirt, the way the land just juts up in these great formations and you really see the turbulent ways of the earth.

We arrived here yesterday. Flew in to Salt Lake and rented a car. Bill and I had our obligatory (one per vacation) big argument in the car on the way down. Something to do with the map (him driving, me reading. of course). I had the urge to wad it up and throw it at him. But he was driving, so I just folded it neatly and went quiet. He pulled over and I drove and he read the map. 

Then we saw this guy.

Now it’s not like I’ve never a bull before. I mean, you know where I come from. But this lovely fellow, it’s like he was selected to actually MATCH the landscape. He’s a beauty. And he knows it.

Okay, enough with the livestock. Here’s one of the things we saw today on our hike. It’s Cassidy Arch, rumoured to be where ol’ Butch and the Hole In the Wall Gang hid out at some point.

Wait a minute, that’s ME standing on the arch OVER Cassidy Arch.

Here’s the actual arch. 

We hiked up a quick 1500 feet or so to get to it. And then we went on and walked, oh, a good six mile hike.  It’s so pretty here, I don’t even notice how tired my legs are.

Happy Birthday to You!

Tuesday, August 17th, 2010

When I was a kid, Mom made every birthday special. She had parties. She decorated cakes. Well, this is a cake from before she taught herself how to decorate them. I’m sure it tasted good. And it was also the birthday when my (very young) aunt decided to cut my bangs. You see how that turned out.

Mom made beautiful cakes and I can’t believe how few pictures I have of them. I had a horse head cake one year, a cake wth little horses on it another year, a cinderella cake (with horses pulling an actual carriage). Yes, horses were the theme of my cakes.

Then, somewhere along the way, I started to pout at birthday parties that weren’t my own. I’m not putting the pictures of me at parties showing the various ways I could pout. But trust me, I did. I think Mom made birthday SO special that I wanted them to all be for me and all about ME.

I don’t do that anymore. Over the years I’ve had a fine time celebrating my birthday and others’ birthdays. I”m glad I’m here and I’m glad all the people in my life are here too. I feel pretty damn lucky.  Today I celebrate my younger sister’s birthday, which is the day before mine. That’s us in this picture. Continuing the horse theme.

Looking for Love in All the Wrong Places

Saturday, July 17th, 2010

This guy greeted me this morning halfway up the block from our house. We’ve heard him calling every morning, all spring and into the summer. Fifteen years ago, when we first moved to here, a party of four peafowl roamed the neigh-borhood (I say “party” because that’s what a group of male and female “peafowl” are. I say “peafowl, ’cause that includes the “hens” and “cocks,” I say “c…” oh nevermind).  

Over the years cars and coyotes and time have dwindled the party to this one lonely fellow (I wonder if he feels how I feel at the end of a party, I’m not an early departer, I always hating to leave early — I hate to miss something).

We hear him often, we see him occasionally. This summer, we’ve seen him most days, hanging out on one or another driveway.  This morning, right when I came along, he opened his feathers. I had my camera, just hoping I’d run into him. It was like he knew. He did a few slow turns: front, side, back. This is the back view.

When I squatted down he came toward me, sideways in these tiny little steps. I don’t know if he was falling for the tinkly sounds my camera makes or if he was trying to scare me. If he was trying to scare me, well I’ve gotta say, “Mr. Peacock, my fine feathered friend (it is the perfect moment to use that phrase, isn’t it?), I’m not scared but I might be in love.”

As I walked on up the big hill, I could hear his strange call, something between a cat and a baby and an elephant. 

He’s lonely. Do you have a friend for him?

Breathing In Lincoln

Tuesday, May 25th, 2010

Up in the mountains, 20 miles west of Ashland, six writers came and went over the course of the week. Laura Stanfill and I stayed there the whole time. It was my second visit to Lincoln. The first time was magical. That time last summer, from the moment I stepped foot in my little apartment named Dmitri (one of five apartments that make up the Bunkhouse), I sunk right into my novel. I dropped deeply in love with pure uninterrupted time to write.

But this time I was a mess when I got there. All the work I’d done on my novel since I’d left Lincoln last summer had ended in a less than perfect critique, an agent saying no thanks, and a deepening worry that I might not be cut out for this. But if not this, then what? Could I give up writing? The possibility of that, the failure of it, stood face-to-face with the relief of no longer having to push through the painful parts of writing. These two, these choices, had been doing a battle in my chest for the past two months and I’d not talked about it much with anyone because I felt embarrassed about it. It seemed a trivial complaint. I have a good life. What right do I have to complain when so many are struggling? But still there was that ache, there in my center.

The first few days at Lincoln, the battle continued. There were times I felt I might not keep breathing for the pressure of it. I kept trying to find my place in the novel: what it was really about, why did I want to write it, what story did I want it to tell? There were moments when I thought I found it and then I lost it again. Fine threads of answers appeared and slipped away and appeared again in a different color.

Each of us, we writers at Lincoln, spent the days alone: writing, walking, reading, sometimes napping, preparing our own meals and sitting alone to eat them. Full days of not talking to a soul, except the people in our stories. We met at seven each evening in my apartment, Alyosha, and shared treats and drink and words and writing. On the second night, I told them of my struggle. I cried. They listened. And on their way out that night, each of them gave me a gift. A book, a hug, an offer to read my work.

After they left, I did some yoga, I wrote for awhile, I meditated. I’d never meditated but I knew it was time for me to do something to tackle this pain, the ache, head on. Each night I did the same thing and then I slept a long quiet sleep. On the third morning I woke up and that ache wasn’t there.

My novel was.

I wrote.

I took a long walk every day, the same walk, so I wouldn’t have to think about where I was going, so the arc of my novel could hover around me, so I could talk it through, out loud. I walked further each time, made it to the creek, the quarry, and further on.

Lincoln is an old milling town that is now a shared community that offers spiritual and contemplative retreats. College students come here for a semester to learn about shared community and to study their beliefs more deeply, they are challenged. Others come for contemplative retreats. There’s the old mill pond, a labyrinth, a vast library, funky old buildings filled with funky old furniture. Here students are asked to let go of the daily distractions of life: cars, cell phones, internet.

I’m not a religious person. Far, far from it. But there’s a feeling here, a gentleness and a sense of intense presence that slowly takes hold. It’s in the rooms and the walls and the forest, even in the horses paddocked behind the bunkhouse, and in the approving clucks of the chickens for our carrot peels and radish greens, for the overripe grapes that earn a deep satisfied coo. All these things make me consider there might be something more, something that brought me to this place that had helped me find my way back to easy breath, an unclenched jaw, connection with these writers, and a pure night’s sleep.

They mill their own wood at Lincoln, making use of the original intent of this place. With some of that wood they are building a chapel in a small and beautiful glade. The bottom floor is framed in. I walked out onto it when I first got here and saw the view they’d have from the chapel windows. The sweet smell of sawdust and the high pitch of a saw reminded me of my childhood, when the new barn was built on our farm and men worked together in an easy way and the women brought food and the kids practiced hammering nails into leftover boards.

On my seventh day at Lincoln I was on my way back from my walk. Everything had changed, I’d found my joy, the peace that comes of writing, the reason I do it. Two men were in the shed, a piece of freshly planed wood between them. The carpenter had his head bent over that board. His hands were steepled. I’m pretty sure he was praying. I looked away and walked past. I went by the unroofed chapel, where a puddle of water from last night’s rain had formed on the floor. It mirrored the trees, the clouds, the glint of sun.

I came back to my cabin and didn’t stop for water or food or to take my coat off. I took up my words, each one whispered to the page, whispered out loud in my room, each one settled into its place in my story.